Drivers/Hardware :: Dynamic Disk Created In Error - How To Remove
Dec 25, 2015
Somehow unintentionally I created a dynamic disk partition on what was my boot drive but is now intended to be my documents and pictures folder drive.
How do I get rid of the first dynamic partition and change it to a normal partition to store my 'Documents" & "Pictures" folders for the new Win 10 Pro drive C:
Windows (Drive C ) is running fine.
trying to set the default location for Pictures and Documents to the original (C) now drive (D)...want only 2 partitions when fixed - "Documents" and "Pictures"
I have a configuration where win 10 is installed on SSD but the Users folder is on a dynamic disk on HDD and the linking is made by a hard junction link from C: to D. I have removed paging on D as well as protection. Hence, I am able to remove all volumes of the dynamic disk and convert it back to a basic disk and format it.The problem is that I would like to keep all my installed programs (and settings, preferably). I have copied the Users directory to an external disk and copied them back to D after conversion. This seems to lead to a nonfunctional situation where I cannot even add a new user and most programs (even not all windows tools) do not work.What would be the best approach to avoid reinstalling the programs and to keep existing users?
Running windows 10, due to some personal reasons want to change my dynamic disk to a basic disk... But the option for the same is greyed out in Disk Management.
I have a drive that I want to use as a backup drive for a Windows 10 machine. The problem is the old drive has a boot partition on it that is making Windows 10 go nuts every time I plug it in. If I wait until after the machine boots and then plug it in via USB adapter then I can get to the files but I want to install it inside the machine permanently.A photo of the Disk Manager is below. How do I (or should I) remove that EFI System Partition? The Disk Manager won't let me do it.
I am using windows 10, and cpuid cpu-z was working perfectly for me. I even uninstalled the program and opened it back up afterwards but it gave me the same message. I open it up and it gives me an error message.Then I display the error log file and I get a text document in which I have listed below, and cut out the name of the user account for the sake of the picture. It also gives me the message "Mutex not created." When I click OK, CPU-Z opens up but displays no information.
I switched the admin account and turned it into a user account, and changed my user account to the admin. I did this because I had just created that new user account and decided I shouldn't use the admin account on a daily basis and I knew that I wouldn't use that new user account because it would just take too long to set up, so I just changed that user account to the admin.
Every time I boot up my pc I get a black screen with 2 lines of text "disk i/o error, replace the disk and then press any key". After I press any key pc boots up fine. Lenovo pc with Windows 10.
Getting ready to move from Win 7-64 to Win 10-64 when 10 is available next month. It's my understanding that Win 10 will not install over Win 7 so I'd like to install a new 250Gb SSD (I currently have Win 7 on a 128Gb SSD as C: ) for a clean install on it. Once all my files & software are transferred I'll keep the current 128Gb SSD as an extra drive.
So, are all SSD Hard Drives created equal? I'm looking at NewEgg & the prices are all over the place. My current SSD is a Cruicial 128Gb which has worked 4 yrs flawlessly.
I clean installed Win 10 RTM version on my laptop a few weeks ago. I have a basic GPT setup.
Installation went fine, however the installer created a 'Recovery' drive (D with a size of 600 MB (262 MB free) & a 'Local Disk' drive (E with a size of 451 MB (128 MB free).
I am stumped as to why it assigned letters to them. If you see the attachment of a snapshot of Partition Wizard, you will be able to see the setup.
My question, besides why the assigned letters is the where the status is listed as 'None'. Is it safe to delete these?? I am assuming that the only partitions i need to keep are the 'ESP', which is 'Active & Boot' - so it is needed to be able to boot into Windows. How about the one listed as 'Other' - the capacity is 128 MB & all 128 MB are used - do i save this one as well?
I really wanted a less cluttered setup - so when all these partitions were created, particularly 'D' & 'E', i was perplexed as to why they were created.
I'm having quite a bit of trouble removing the generic bluetooth drivers that Windows installs for you. Those have to be gone if I want to install Toshiba Bluetooth Stacks, which I need in order to use my Wii U Pro Controller in my computer. I've gone through a few methods to try this out and all have failed.
I started out by simply uninstalling the drivers on the device manager (or whatever it is called in English). Didn't work, as the drivers were back when I had to plug in my dongle to complete the installation for TBS. When I tried this in Windows 7, it worked flawlessly, yet in Windows 10 this method did not work.
Afterwards, I tried deactivating the forced driver signature, as well as make it so Windows Update doesn't automatically download any drivers it finds suitable. On top of this, I traveled into the INF folder of my Windows folder to do steps that Microsoft recommended: rename bth.inf to bth.inf.old and bth.pnf to bth.pnf.old. With all this, it should in theory work right? Nope, it didn't. Not even after a reset.
My last attempt involved unplugging my PC from the Internet as a first step, followed by everything else listed above and then a reset. The drivers were still back, bth.inf and bth.pnf somehow magically appearing in my Windows folder when I have no Internet access. I'm at a loss as to what I'm supposed to do.
I have just upgraded to Windows 10 from windows 7 home edition, I have problem while creating system repair image disk. I have inserted a blank dvd but while the create image app is running it shows error message called Unspecified error,
Does windows 10 disk cleanup remove windows updates? I updated windows 10 , i reboot and i run disk cleanup as administrator but in the list there is no entry about windows updates....
I could not load a disk with OS software and received this error message. "Disk has MBR Partition Table. On EFI Systems, Windows Can Only Be Installed On GPT Disks".
I had Windows 10 Enterprise on a ssd 480gb sandisk ultra II but It's corrupted, I can't even launch Windows or repair tools.
I've managed to run repair tools and get a command prompt, as diskpart says, my disk is on a raw partition now, and it shows the following:
Total space on disk: 448gb
Space available on disk: 448gb
I've read something that on raw filesystem Windows can't see the drive then I'm wondering, if diskparts says that the space available is the same tan total disk, does it mean that I've lost all my data? Is really important for me to recover the data.
I've installed Windows 10 on another drive, but the drive isn't recognized, not in diskpart, not in Windows explorer, and tried about 5-6 programs for recover data on raw disk/partition and none of them saw my disk.
The main question is if I lost all my data, because if not, I will give it to the shop for repair it.
I have a program that I wanted to install into my Win 10 Pro Machine (64 Bit) and have found that the disk can not be read by the DVD/CD-ROM Drive. I also tried it in another Windows 10 Computer (64 Bit) and it also can't read the disk.The disk worked fine under Windows 7, in both the same computers. The drive works as it reads other CD/DVD's.
The disk is good as it works perfect in an other Windows 7 (32 Bit) and Vista computers (32 Bit). Computer is up to date with builds etc.
I guess I am used to removing a drive when done on USB...and I used to do this with eSATA. However, while I can still do this on USB is there any way to remove my eSATA drive when I am done? Some have said you do not need to in Win 10 and we can just shut it down and others say to use software like Hotswap.
How do I remove the dialog box telling me to update drivers ? I have automated updates from HP so I do not require a new program that wants to install on my computer. I'm confused as to whether it's from MicroSoft or some scam.
My old Windows XP Desktop stopped running 2 weeks ago, with a No OS Found error. Since then I've taken the hard drive out and connected it to my new Windows 10 desktop with a USB 2.0 to SATA Adapter. It does not show up in "My Computer", but is detected in Computer Management.
The drive's an old Western Digital WD2000 one, and started clicking (for a few seconds) as soon as I attached it to the PC w/the USB Adapter. The clicking stopped after that.
It shows up as "Disk 1, Unknown, with the amount of data on it (186.31 GB [out of 200]), and is Unallocated. I've already tried numerous utility and Data Recovery programs, such as Recuva, MiniTool Partition Wizard, EaseUS Data/Partition Recovery. No luck with these.
They were either not detected, or didn't find anything. MiniTool Partition Wizard said it's a "Bad Disk" I
Partition Find and Mount is still conducting a scan which has been going for the past 7 hours (35%).
BTW - I really can't leave the hard drive on for the night to conduct a long scan. It's been overheating, and I already have a large fan next to it to cool it down. It's not safe to leave this on for an extended period of time.
Only to find out I bought a USB 3.0 Adapter instead of a 2.0 my old XP supported when It still ran.
So it was working fine and then it got slow when putting things on it and then blah it wont let me open it. if i managed to get the attachment thingy right you the drive f: which is giving me the problems i tried to circle it in paint.
I just spent a long time trying to find the best answer for this and wanted to save people some time... this is specifically for Windows 10.(So, the answer is basically here: URL...Add a new "Multi String Value" called "TreatAsInternalPort" to HKEY_LOCAL_ MACHINE SYSTEM Current Control SetService sstorahciParametersDevice with the values "0|1|2|3|4|5|" (the | symbolizes a new line)(I had to reboot two (2) times before the changes took.)
I had to do this fix because BitLocker has different options specifically for fixed, local, internal drives as opposed to a USB drive or eSATA drive which is removable. Also, this gets rid of the "Eject" option in Windows 10 for mislabeled internal HDDs.This is what it looks like when storing the values into "TreatAsInternalPort":
