Drivers/Hardware :: Motherboard Power Still On After Upgrade
Aug 16, 2015
I have a strange issue where after a full shut down in Windows 10, the motherboard is still delivering power to my connected devices such as my headset, keyboard, mouse and monitors i.e. all the lights on these devices are still on, whereas previously in Win7 they would all turn off.
I did an in-place upgrade from Win7-Win10 and adjusted no motherboard BIOS settings.
I've looked through the Win10 power options and can;t see anything relating to keeping devices on after a shut down. I assume this is so USB devices like phones and tablets can charge from USB when the PC is off? However I don;t need this feature if that's the intention.
Is windows 10 (vs win7) sending a different command back to the MB on a shutdown?
I'm just wondering, once i upgrade my OS to windows 10, does that upgrade bind to my current motherboard and will only work with the motherboard it has been upgraded on only. I am asking this cause i am planning to upgrade these days, but i also have plans to upgrade my cpu during the next year which will ultimately require a new motherboard. So i just want to know if i can upgrade without worrying that once i change my motherboard that the OS will become invalid and that i will need a new one.
I don't really know whats going on but I wiped my old system, re installed win 7 and then upgraded to win 10 and now my oc motherboard bundle keeps failing. I can use the computer for 10 to 20 mins and then it powers itself down resets and comes up with a message saying the settings have failed, if I re load the profile and reboot the comp will work until I turn it off for the night and then the same problem following day.
The bundle worked fine since I purchased it at the beginning of the year and is oc through bios by overclockers uk so I thought it didn't make any difference what os I used....
I am currently running Windows 10 upgraded from Windows 8.1 Pro retail. Here's the deal: I am upgrading my system to Skylake, so obviously that means a new motherboard. I know if I want to directly install Win10, I have to get a new license ; but if I just reinstall my Win8.1, will I be able to perform the upgrade again ?
So my original motherboard (a G45 express chipset from 2007~) doesn't support overclocking, only supports LGA 775, and has a maximum of 300W. It needs replacing pronto. The thing is, the windows is a OEM copy, so the key is bound to the motherboard. Now I heard that if you phone up Microsoft and tell them that the old motherboard broke, and you bought a new one and now windows wont work, they often just give you a new code and disable your old code?
Will this still work in the windows 10 era? As soon as the old windows key is disabled will my current windows install just break? URL... So I just read that you swap the boards, install windows, and wait until it asks for the key
I am building my first computer with windows 10 64-bit and I can't find the usb 3.0 drivers for my motherboard. Do the usb 3.0 drivers come with windows 10? here is my motherboard and the available drivers from asrock for my motherboard, I see everything except usb 3.0 drivers. URL...
So apparently I need to update my chipset drivers because USBPORT.sys is causing DCP latency. How do I do this? Also is it risky like changing a bios? Will I need to backup/ reinstall?
BIOS Version/Date Phoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS M2N-E SLI ACPI BIOS Revision 0801, 25/04/2007.This is an older MB and I have installed Windows 10 as a fresh install now and its running nicely.would I be able in the future to install windows via a USB Stick as there's no option in the BIOS as a first boot device.This is in case I ever have a situation where I can't get back into Windows and need to reinstall my OS.
Do I really need to re-install 8.1 to see if it's a software issue? Because before I went to 10, it worked fine. But now in speccy and OpenHardwareMonitor, I am unable to get a reading.
I recently upgraded from Windows 7 to Windows 10, and now i am no longer able to power on my pc from my keyboard or mouse. Nothing has changed in the bios settings (see below) and i'm unable to find anything in the windows settings or from some frantic Googling,
Admittedly not the biggest problem in the world, but i did find it handy as i game on my tv and love the fact i didn't have to move my lazy backside to power on my machine.
I have the BIOS setting to auto power on every day at a designated time. It has worked with a dual boot Win 7/8.1 system. However, since upgrading the Win 8.1 to Win 10 (dual boot Win 7/10) it no longer powers on at the designated time. Its still set up correctly in the BIOS.
This is apparently not the "fast boot" option that was in Win 8.1 as I can access the BIOS on power on (couldn't with the Win 8 fast boot).
About 2 weeks ago I was upgrading Windows from 7 to 10. wehn at about 35% through there was a power outage and all power was lost.
When the power came back on, I switched my computer on and the screen was blank, power was getting to the screen, it came up with the ACER brand name and then said 'signal lost' and turned off.
The computer does something, but I'm not sure what as I cant see anythign on the screen, I connected 2 different monitors to get the same response.
What can I do to get the computer working properly, I'm not sure if the upgrade was sucessful or not and need to get information from the the PC.
what I can do to get the use of the computer back again without deleting all the data on it, or how I can transfer the files to another PC.
So, last week I upgraded my Toshiba L850-161 from Windows 7 to 10. Since the upgrade my laptop now starts up as soon as the lid is lifted, without me pressing the power button to start the computer. I am shutting the computer down via the start menu.
I thought this problem may be caused by the fast Start-Up in Windows 10, but my friend also uses this feature on his laptop but he still needs to press the power button to start-up.
I then did some research and found the Panel Open - Power On software included by Toshiba. I checked to see if this was activated but it was disabled by default.
I'm a bit stuck here. According to my settings my laptop shouldn't start when the panel is opened, but it does, and I don't want it to. I'd rather start my laptop the old-fashioned way - with the power button.
I own a Gigabyte P34G V2, and it's a laptop, but it's been designed with a special USB 3.0 port to use for charging. This port should charge at 1 amp, compared to a usual USB 3.0 port's 0.5, But it has some odd behavior on my Winodws 10 OS for me.
So, the Gigabyte Smart Manager I have has charging enabled, for sleep and hibernation, everything on, and I got a USB power checker to check voltage and amperage.
Every other port on the laptop does 0.44 Amps, but this port refuses to work properly.
When plugging it in, it will spike up to 0.88, and then stop outputting power altogether, before turning back on at 0.44 Amps.
I post this in the Windows 10 section because I believe the issue has to deal with drivers, and not with the hardware or anything, I have BIOS settings set for it to charge as well.
Basically my gaming laptop (Msi gs70 Stealth) turned off suddenly when I accidentally knocked out the charging cable and then I couldn't turn it back on unless I put it back in, so I wouldn't be surprised if I have a battery problem but that's not even my biggest concern.
My biggest concern is that after I turned it back on my D: drive was straight up gone from my files, all icons to it broken just plain gone. I checked my files and the C: drive was fine but there was nothing next to it where the D: drive always was before. I was obviously very worried so I decided to the standard "lets hope this fixes it" solution and restarted the computer. This time as it loaded up it started to scan and repair the D: drive so I let it do its thing. 5 hours later it finishes and I go to check to see if the D: drive is back... but nothing it still was not there and I couldn't access it.
A while back I accidently kicked out the power cord from my laptop which damaged the power connector. It still worked, it charged just fine, but whenever the connector was plugged in, the "power connector is not plugged in properly" warning kept popping up even though the laptop was charging just fine. The other strange thing is that the warning box would be translucent and flickering and I couldn't close it. I could click on another window to send it to the back but couldn't close the warning box except in Task Manager. It would shortly pop up again anyway.
So I finally got the connector replaced thinking that would solve the problem but it didn't. The warning box constantly and randomly pops up while charging making me think that maybe the motherboard suffered some damage too.
Rather than pay to replace the motherboard, is it possible to simply disable this warning? I really don't need to know if the connector is plugged in properly, it's hard not to plug it in properly and if it's not charging I will find out eventually via low power warnings.
I've just done a clean install of W10 on my Dell Inspiron 7537 laptop. I turned off the laptop last night when the battery was about half discharged.
I tried turning on the laptop today after it had been off 18 hours and it was completely dead - there was no response to the power on button and no charging light despite the charger outputting the correct voltage.
I read online about removing the battery so I did this. I removed the battery, pressed the power button for 60s then plugged in the power lead and hey presto the laptop started! I then put the battery back in and started W10 fine. The battery showed 56% charge so the battery wasn't flat.
I can only think there was a poor battery connection which prevented the laptop starting and removing and replacing the battery cured this.
Ever since I updated to Windows 10, I've been having this issue. On computer start up with the TV on and set to the computer source, it works fine. As soon as we switch the TV source or turn the TV off we lose the audio when we go back to the computer source. The Philips TV I use as my monitor disappears from the available sound sources, and I have a red x in the volume setting on the task bar.
Rebooting the computer is the only way I've found to bring the sound back. This is the exact same computer and TV I used with no issues for over a year before upgrading to Windows 10.
I have installed the latest realtek audio driver listed on this site. I have used the ACER care centre to look for updates, but it says there are none. I've also tried switch out from the realtek to the standard windows driver, but nothing has solved the problem.
I have an ACER XC-605 media PC. Operating system : ,Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64-bit Processor : ,Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4130 CPU @ 3.40GHz Memory : ,6GB Graphics device : ,Intel(R) HD Graphics 4400 Audio device 1 : ,Intel(R) Display Audio Audio device 2 : ,Realtek High Definition Audio
I ran into this problem while on Win7 & found a fix (YouTube - Apple Keyboard Hack - Fully-powered USB ports on a PC!) . Unfortunately, the YouTube video has been removed. I use an Apple keyboard that has 2-USB ports, one on each side of the keyboard. The power limits for these USBs was 100mA on Win7 so using a mouse is OK. But, if I plug in a USB drive or better yet my Wacom Tablet I get an error stating the power is too low to support. I believe the ports need to be 500mA.
I don't recall exactly how the YouTube author changed the registry key value but he did & I used these 2 USBs without problems for 4 years. I'm having trouble finding the USB location using run / regedit. Below are two screen grabs I used in my post 4 years ago. Windows 10 looks a lot different. Anyway, the USB I need is port 3 hub 7. How to navigate the registry key to that location & edit from 100mA to 500mA.
Updated my wife's laptop with windows 10 and now is missing the battery meter (charging, power left also no warning on screen when low power) going to the notification area properties the option to turn power icon is completely greyed out and unselectable. Fully up to date and have ran a sweep for errors with SFC/scannow and returned no errors.
I recently upgraded Windows 7 to Windows 10. When I power down the system from the menu, my computer does not completely turn off. The procedure I use is described below:
Click Windows_Start_button > Power > Shutdown
The system closes applications and appears to initiate a shutdown procedure. Everything appears to be shut off, but my mouse is still lit up. I do notice that the fan stops and everything else appears to be completely shut down. When I was running Windows 7 before my upgrade, my system completely powered down.
I have a dual boot system with Linux, and when I power down from Linux, the shutdown is complete, so I don't think I accidentally did anything to the hardware or BIOS.
I've been planning on swapping out my motherboard for a new one. I've looked around and it has come to my attention that i would need to reinstall my Operating System. But it wasn't mine and i no longer have contact with the friend that let me use it. my question is, do I need the Disk that i used to install it? or any sort of key? and if so, are there any alternatives to get it cheaper? (my os is windows 10 and i used to have windows 7 before i upgraded)
So I am going to upgrade from an a8-7600 apu to possibly an AMD 6 core cpu which will require a new motherboard since its an am3+ Ok so since I need to change motherboards and on this current pc i am on i upgraded my windows 7 to windows 10 does that mean I cannot use this copy of windows 10 when i change my mobo and cpu? I would have to buy a new copy of windows basically?
As the question says. I want to upgrade my motherboard & CPU. Recently I got windows 10 update for free. & I heard that significant hardware change can deactivate windows. I don't want to go back to windows 8...
So after some recent hardware problems I had to replace my mother board. I bought a different model than the one I had previously. I had previously installed a copy of Windows 7 and had it activated by a man on Craigslist who I assume had a membership or something because the key was legit. I later upgraded to Windows 10.
Now my computer is fixed and Windows 10 is installed but it will not activated because the OS considers this motherboard a "new device."Also, I do NOT have a key for any version of Windows and I would really rather not spend 100 dollars buying another copy.
I've clean installed windows, reinstalled all my drivers, and reset the bios but my computer is still performing slow. I went from a MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 motherboard to a MSI A55M-E35 one and from Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 to Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8 GB) BLS8G3D1609DS1S00. I don't believe there should have been much of a performance change because of the hardware so I'm thinking I probably did something wrong.
