Sometimes when turning pc on I get a popup saying input signal out of range change settings to 1600x900-60hz and when pc comes on everything is magnified then after rebooting several times screen returns to normal?
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I upgraded to Windows 10 yesterday, and at first, everything was fine, but when I play league of legends, randomly, my computer just says "input not supported" or "no signal" or sometimes nothing at all, and then shuts down. This never happened before I upgraded to Windows 10. I went back to Windows 8.1, but it still shuts down in the middle of league games. Again, never happened before going to Windows 10. Is it my GPU? or CPU? or PSU?
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory
Storage: Intel 530 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card
PSU: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
Also, the SSD is my boot drive and has league on it, it has only about 35GB out of 240GB left.
For some reason, ever since i built my computer back in late 2014, it has been going very slow. Programs take awhile to start up and the initial boot takes about 5-7 minutes. However, all the games I play run very well. I actually overclock both my CPU and GPU with low temps. My specs are as follows:
GPU: AMD Gigabyte R9 270 w/ 2gigs vRAM
CPU: AMD FX 6300 OC'd to 4.0GHz
RAM: 8gigs of 1333MHz DDR3
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-970A-DS3P
PSU: Sentey 725w
Edit: I forgot to mention that the USB 3.0 ports rarely work. This has been a problem ever since I got the mobo. I will probably just call Gigabyte at some point if no is able to figure that out
windows 10 installed major updates this morning now I cannot get onto the internet via my range extender this has always been intermittent in the past but could get it to work eventually I have run the connection diagnostics and its telling me there are components missing and will not connect?
if I move rooms so that I am directly linked to the router instead of the extender everything works fine.
When I try to dump the stack I input the command dps ffffd00026876000 ffffd00026870000. The two values are my base and limit values. I tripple checked them many times.
However everytime I input that command I get an error message saying
"^ Range error in 'dps ffffd00021787000 ffffd00021781000"...
How do I assign a range of letters, that can be used for e.g. external flash disks, external ssd's/hdd's or memory cards?
I have this nasty issue. I have two Network Attached Drives, on server. They work fine, D and E. But I also have NAS [DS 716+] which is on NAS drive F:. Whenever I shut down my DS 716+, and I connect some external hdd/ssd/memory card, it always asigns letter F:. Which makes these devices quiet inaccessible, or hard accessible, I can't double click them to open, I need to type in manually F: etc.
Is there any way via msc or something, where I can define a range of all external hdd's/ssd's and/or memory cards?
I'm having some troubles with my VPN at the moment, and customer supports staff has told me to "change your default gateway / network DHCP range in your router to..." How do I do this?
View 1 RepliesBlue Stacks app player doesn't start. The following report
In English > the specified argument is outside the range of valid values. Parametername: minimum size
What does is mean and how can this solved?
Basically, after installing windows 10 I turn on the computer, and it works. But my TV which I run through HDMI to my computer shows and says "no signal". SIDE NOTE: when I turn on my computer my computer runs awfully quiet. For a few seconds I hear something get loud but then it dies down.
View 1 RepliesYooooo! I have a Lenovo Y510p with modified BIOS so I could replace the crappy Intel wireless card that came with it (Intel Centrino N2230) for an Azurewave - Broadcom 4352. The experience has been good so far, the only problem I'm having is the low wireless signal with the card. I have other laptops that have higher range and strengths on the same place with older cards.
I've tried verifying (and even swapping) the cables and noted no difference. I asked on another forum and they told me that it could be that the card is not receiving enough power, but I have yet to find a settings in the BIOS or in Windows that dwindles its performance. I have recently updated the driver from Lenovo's website and it didn't improve a bit. How to improve the wireless signal?
Sometimes when I'm gaming online my connection gets lost and my wifi gives me no internet signal but there is internet on my other devices, I solve it by clicking on airplane mode twice (on and off again ) then the Internet comes back . Is there a permanent solution to this ?
View 1 Replieslast night i started the auto upsate to Windows 10 from windows 8 and It restarteded a few Times and everything seemed Good, so i went to sleep and leet the computer run.
So when i Woke up this morning i went to the computer to test Windows 10 now when i tought IT Was installed. But nothing happen so i tried to restart but still No signal. I have tried to restart the bios from cmos battery but still nothing.
After upgrading from windows 8.1 to 10, my monitor stopped working, showing a "no signal" error then popping to black screen. The computer works I can hear it running when I power on, but the monitor shows nothing.
I tried to remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes (something I read from another thread), but didn't work.
Specs:
Operating System
Windows 8.1 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i5 4690K @ 3.50GHz
Haswell 22nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 666MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd. H97-D3H-CF (SOCKET 0)
Graphics
22M45 (1920x1080@60Hz)
Intel HD Graphics 4600 (Gigabyte)
4095MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 (Gigabyte)
Storage
1863GB Seagate ST2000DX001-1CM164 (SATA)
saw other post about Crashing without BSOD, and i followede some of the steps other people had to no luck. screen turns black, says no signal(one says no VGA and other say no HDMI), sounds cuts off, PC is still on, Lights in mouse and keyboard have to shut down the pc manual no BSOD.
ad the problem for some time now. first time i got them was in the Starcraft 2 legacy of the void, in some of the cutscenes, but only in the cutscenes, and now i have it again in blade and soul. sometimes at the login and sometimes when i enter the game(Cutscene). URL....starcraft was random times some cutscens were ok, some not, What i did was instant esc and watchede the cutscene online if it crashede) every other game i played/tryed i never crashede like this. WoW fallout 4 so on.
specs:
GPU: AMD radeon HD 7950 3GB
CPU:Intel Core i5-3570 @ 3.40GHz
Ram: 8GB ddr3 1333MHz
hard drive(s) 1: Samsung SSD 840 series 250GB
hard drive(s) 2: 500GB (SATA 6Gb/s) 7200RPM
mainboard: ASUS P8B75-M
PSU:XFX PRO XPS-550W-SEW
Windows: 10.
what i have try'ed so far. update all drivers,(also BIOS)removing mouse/keyborad/headset from usb(when the game was in loading scene to the cutscene removeing Ram blocks,MemTest did a Verifier /standard /all in CMD crashed(got minidump file) HW monitor C* on pc, GPU never came over 65, CPU never over 70 no overclocks Checked Voltages seems to be in range,
use WhoCrashed to read the DMP file.
On Wed 20-01-2016 19:42:35 GMT your computer crashed
crash dump file: C:WindowsMinidump12016-4453-01.dmp
[code]...
This appears to be a typical software driver bug and is not likely to be caused by a hardware problem. The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect. Possibly this problem is caused by another driver on your system that cannot be identified at this time. URL...
Just updated to Win 10x64 Home. Google Input Tools not available in Edge. Forced to type non-English language in MS Word and then paste it in Edge.
View 1 Replieslately I have a really weird bug. Windows 10 randomly adds US English to my keyboard inputs. But when I go into the language input menu, US english is not there. The screenshot below will show you exactly what I mean, and this is really annoying, cause I am living in UK and I want to use the UK layout not the US.
View 9 RepliesI just bought this computer a few weeks ago and this problem has been persistent since I've gotten it. sometimes when I login, the screen is black or partially black, the rectangle for my pin is still visible however. My screen is touchscreen. I can "erase" the black with my finger and the normal login screen appear underneath. Inputting my pin is no problem and after login I don't see this problem anywhere else.
View 5 RepliesIn Windows 7 and 8, when I saved an Excel input.csv file to a master.csv file, it would just save.
Now in Windows 10, the Excel file opens up and has to be saved manually (file save as...).
Is there a way to get it to just save as it did in Windows 7 and 8, as opposed to having the file open up like that?
FILE name form shows up as (changed from real file name) = FIL#####,CHK Adobe Reader will not read it.
View 5 RepliesOn the log-in screen the language is English, but AFTER I log in to Windows, the default INPUT language is Bulgarian, although English is the default one in Language Preferences. How can I change it to English?
View 2 RepliesWhen I change the input language, it is changed for the whole system, i.e. all apps, Office, browsers, etc. In Windows 7 it used to change only for the specific app which is active on the display, i.e. the language for the rest remained the same. Is there a way for Windows 10 to behave like Windows 7 in this respect?
View 2 RepliesAfter installing windows 10, most of the time when I boot after the windows logo with circles below it the signal to display stops, if I press reset then the computer boots but the startup is very slow. With windows 8 from pressing the power button I would get to desktop in 8 secs, here it takes at least 30 secs or more. I would like to know the if problem is with windows 10 or Nvidia drivers.
I have Nvidia's 650 Ti boost card.
So I bought a new monitor, the MG279Q and tried plugging it in to my PC via displayport, the monitor comes with a DP->miniDP cable, (from GTX780 DP to monitors miniDP) and the monitor gives no signal. However the computer does recognize the monitor and for example gives the sound alarm for new device attached. I can also see the device describes as "Generic pnp monitor" and I can see it in the Windows's own control panel for monitor + the nvidia control panel (pics in the end). But it won't allow me to set the monitor to use..
I suspected that the cable might be broken so I tested it with my UX32LN (GeForce 840M) laptop which has a miniDP. I plugged it to the monitor (from laptops miniDP to monitors normal DP, the monitor has both DP and mDP) and wow, image straight away. So the cable should be fine I guess.. But this is somewhat of an different situation as I use different port in the monitor compared to my desktops GTX780. And I don't have other computers or gadgets that I could use to test the monitors miniDP port.
Next I plugged in the monitor via HDMI to my desktop and that worked just fine. It recognizes the monitor without problems. Using my old XL2411Z monitor with DVI + MG279Q with DP or the MG279Q with HDMI+DP at the same time I can see the MG279Q being connected twice but it only chooses the HDMI connection and doesn't let me change it to DP even though it shows the connection.
Here are some pics to explain it better:
Multiple panel settings window. It shows the MG279Q on the top (under GTX780 the one not clicked) but it won't let me click it to use. Sometimes it lets me tick it for a second but instantly ticks the box off. The monitor nro 2 is the MG279Q via HDMI.
Surround+PhysX window shows that I've connected the monitor via DP but it is greyed out. It also won't let me make a surround set with the Xl2411z + mg279q DP.
Changing resolution settings only displays the HDMI connected monitor.
So I tried uninstalling the Nvidia drivers + freshly installing them, did not work at all. Neither did uninstalling the generic pnp monitor so the computer would reinstall the displays drivers. I also freshly installed from Win7 Pro -> Win 10 Pro and no difference (was intended to do that later on anyway so I thought that I might check, my laptop is running Win10 and it's DP worked after all). I also went to BIOS and checked that iGPU is disabled + monitor setting is set to PCIE instead of auto, no use. I would also test the GTX780's DP on other desktop computer but I can't. Anyway I'm somewhat suspecting a software/hardware compatibility issue as the monitor is being recognized. Doubt the fact that the monitors miniDP or my graphics cards DP port is broken..
What should I do or try? I really want to run the monitor via DP so I can utilize the 144Hz refresh rate.
Tech specs:
PC: P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 (bios v3202) + i7 2700K, GTX 780 DC2 (vbios 80.80.21.00.AS04), 4x4GB 1600Mhz DDR3, AX 760 PSU, Win10 Pro
Monitor(s): MG279Q + XL2411Z
I even went to the point going to the configure in Network Adapter Settings > Configure > Ticked off Allowed The Computer To Turn Off This Device To Save Power
It worked For 15 minutes or so, then the Wifi kept on dropping out, I've Restarted and Done All The Router Stuff, That Other Blogs Suggested, Still Nothing, Wifi continuously Drives me insane, now it drops to 2 bars of signal all the time.
I also did ipconfig/ flushdns and that didn't work either, though i was hoping it would, but anyway, I have port forwarded my IP so I can play Mine Craft with my cousin, but other than That, why it just drops constantly in wifi signal all the time.
What I can do to get it staying 5/4 bars signal Strength and not drop when I'm watching Netflix or playing Mine Craft or Battlefield 4 Multi Player. what else I can do, if they need my Wire Less info/name of it, it is
Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160
and yes it is up to date in patches and etc... it worked fine even in Windows 7 Home and Windows 8.1 Home, but as soon as I grabbed Windows 10 Home Update, it just keeps on doing this annoying bug.
Upgraded my system to Windows 10 from 8.1. ASRock Z170 Gaming K4, i7-6700k, 16Gb DDR4, GTX980Ti, 958.87 Win 10 drivers (was using the same version win 8.1 driver) 3 Asus 24" monitors connected with display port to HDMI cables.
After a few minutes of not touching the keyboard or mouse, the monitors appear to have the signal stop being sent but I can see the LED backlights are still on so the screens have a glow, they are not black. As I have a TV tuner card in my system and usually have one monitor showing TV having all 3 screens lose the signal from the video card is a pain. Power setting is set to turn screens off after an hour of inactivity but this issue seems to be the video signal getting shut down.
So is this a Windows 10 or nVidia driver issue? Did not do this with 8.1 with the same driver version.
I was installing everything with relative ease so I left my computer unattended. When I came back, the computer had restarted and sounded fine except there was no video output. (I aIso couldn't hear the hard drive spinning), thinking this was normal, let it sit for about 3 hours before I got suspicious. So I tried all of the available video ports (except displayport) and none of them had a signal. I let it sit for about 2 more hours, still, nothing. So I tried turning it of and back on again. Still, nothing.
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