I recently had my PlayStation 3 system corrupt, and I had two options, to delete all of my data and start new, or go trough a long process to restore my data.
To restore my data, I need to change my computer to the SATA Controller mode IDE, but I can not find it in the system BIOS. The closet thing I can find is switching between AHCI and ATA, but I need IDE mode.
Where can I find the setting to change it?
I am finding the correct driver for my SATA RAID controller which is operating two mirrored 2TB hard drives. The computer still recognizes the controller being installed at the BIOS level. But currently Windows doesn't see the controller card or hard drives.
Information on the card is; Sil 3124 PCI/PCI-X to 4 port SATA300
System information is: AMD 64x2 Dual Core 5800+ 3.00GHZ with 6GB RAM operating Windows 10 Pro.
So at first, I was trying to resolve an issue with my BD-ROM drive described here: XPS 8700 - BD-ROM (HL-DT-ST DVDRW/BDROM CH20N) Not Recognized Windows 10 - Disk Drives (HDD, CD/DVD, Blu-ray) Forum - Disk Drives - Dell Community
However, when attempting to try different things, I am now in a position where I can no longer boot to Windows 10. More specifically, when I turn on my computer, I get an error saying no bootable drives found and it just lists my SATA 1, 2, 3, etc. drives with an option to restart or go to BIOS setup. In other words, I don't even see Windows anymore existing.
My basic computer specs:
Dell XPS 8700 SE
Intel Core i7-4700
Windows 10 with 1511 update
2TB hdd with 32GB mSATA SSD cache drive
16GB RAM
BD-ROM
I need to get Windows working again, and hopefully, get back my data. Here's what I did to cause the problems:
1) I went to Dell UEFI BIOS setup, and changed the SATA mode from "RAID" to "AHCI". Saved and exited BIOS.
2) After rebooting, Windows failed to load, had a consistent blue screen with the sad smiley face with error "IO1_INITIALIZATION_FAILED", automatic repair also failed.
3) I tried reverting back to "RAID" in SATA mode in BIOS, but it failed to change anything. Windows still wouldn't boot
4) I then entered into the special BIOS menu showing devices which listed my mSATA cache drive and hard drive and RAID settings. Since it showed that the cache drive was "Disabled", I thought I could fix my issues by re-creating the RAID array.
5) I tried to delete the current RAID setup shown in that BIOS menu, then chose the option to recreate the RAID0 array by selecting the option to create a "Striped Disk Array".
6) Once I did the above, Windows itself disappeared, and trying to undo the RAID0 option did not fix anything
So now I am no longer seeing Windows, not sure if my data on the hard drive still exists, and my cache drive (obviously) is not working.
doing a clean reinstall and losing all my previous data in Windows?
I just spent a long time trying to find the best answer for this and wanted to save people some time... this is specifically for Windows 10.(So, the answer is basically here: URL...Add a new "Multi String Value" called "TreatAsInternalPort" to HKEY_LOCAL_ MACHINE SYSTEM Current Control SetService sstorahciParametersDevice with the values "0|1|2|3|4|5|" (the | symbolizes a new line)(I had to reboot two (2) times before the changes took.)
I had to do this fix because BitLocker has different options specifically for fixed, local, internal drives as opposed to a USB drive or eSATA drive which is removable. Also, this gets rid of the "Eject" option in Windows 10 for mislabeled internal HDDs.This is what it looks like when storing the values into "TreatAsInternalPort":
When I download my free version of Windows 10, I want to install it to my 128gb SATA drive which is now labeled Drive S, and keep my current installation of Win 7 Ultimate on drive C in case I want to revert back to Win 7.
How do I install Win 10 on my SATA drive, change it to become the bootable drive, and retain Win 7 on drive C? Also, if I decide to revert back to Win 7, what process do I go through to revert back to the old Drive C?
I am building a new PC with no internal storage. I am installing a 2.5" SATA dock in one 3.5" bay and one 3.5" SATA dock in a second 5.25" bay.
My intention is to have one SSD for my work PC on Windows 10, one SSD for my son for his gaming on Windows 7 (some of his games are not Win 10 compatible yet), and perhaps a third SSD for playing around with Linux installs, etc.
The 3.5" dock will have a 1TB HDD for backup.
From what I have read, since these drives will not technically be external. (plugged into the SATA on the mainboard through the dock, and not via USB or e-sata.), that their creation and use could be problematic if I use the UEFI boot system, or secure boot for that matter.
So.... I am looking for a methodology which I should use to setup these boot SSDs which will give me the least problems and management issues.
A side related question. I have a boot SSD with Win 7 home premium that is eligible for Win 10 upgrade. It currently resides in my Dell Alienware x-51 R1 system, but I want to move it to the new system as the drive my son will be using.
Will there be any issues in moving the drive to a new system architecture?If/when he can upgrade to Win 10, will there be any issues with that since the architecture has changed from the system of origin?Do I need to backup/reformat/restore the drive in order to get it to boot properly in the above mentioned docking bay system?Since only one drive could be used at any one time. In your opinion, do you think I need multiple Windows Licenses?
I turned on high contrast mode. Now it won't change back to normal mode no matter what I do. I tried selecting None in the dialog box for high contrast mode and all the other modes.
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My computer is using my microsoft account password on startup
How do I get back in control of my password?
How do I change this screen? Change in non Uefi Mode? My motherboard is 5 years old. Can this be done without switching to UEFI?
View 2 RepliesI am pretty good with computer but I have ran in to a problem I just can't fix. The operating system will not let me change the lock screen background mode from Windows Spotlight to something else. I have searched for an hour without any luck. My laptop has had a history of breaking down. The first time was hard drive failure and I have lost all my data. The second time I needed to repair was when the computer got so slow it was unusable and eventually got blue screens at boot And I needed to reinstall the operating system. When I try to go to edit the setting it is grayed out and on the top it says Some settings are managed by your organization" I am not apart of any organization and I am the only user on the computer with Administrator privileges.
View 9 RepliesMicrosoft said a clean install of Windows 10 can happen. How do you find the key? Do you have to use a key finder after the upgrade or will Microsoft make it easily available?
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View 14 RepliesI recently tried to upgrade a friend's Windows 8.1 notebook to Windows 10. I had a Windows 10 Greek DVD-ROM with me to save time waiting for the update to download. I checked System Properties, it was Windows 8.1 64-bit, everything was in Greek, so I assumed he had the Greek Windows version and I could proceed with the upgrade using my DVD-ROM. Unfortunately he originally had the English version and he had added the Greek Language Pack and changed the default display language to Greek! So after wasting about half an hour for Windows Setup to check and download updates, we were presented with the choice of keeping his data only (second), the choice to keep both data and applications (first) was grayed out. I read at the bottom that I could not make a proper upgrade because the language I'm trying to install was different from the system language! Oh my God! Eventually we wasted another hour to wait for the upgrade to download!
So the question is how can I check which is the original system language? One possible way is to install a utility such as Aida64 and go to the Operating System section, but this is not really convenient to download and install a utility just to check the language version. How can I do it from Windows without using any utility? System Properties do not display this information and if the user has changed the display language, like in my friend's case, you can be deceived. Neither does winver, I checked.
I got updated last night. I can't find my update history. I used to be able to in Win 7. In Win 10 I don't know what to click on. A notification appeared at the lower right corner of the screen and then disappeared after about two seconds. The Notification area says No Notifications.
View 1 RepliesWhen trying to create Windows 10 installation media on a USB drive with media creation tool,despite having a 16gig USB drive plugged in and recognized by my laptop it's not being recognized by media creation tool..(refresh does nothing)
Question #1..does this USB drive need to be empty with no other files on it whatsoever?
Question #2..this USB drive was formatted in Windows 7 initially,do I need to reformat it now in Windows 10?
Question #3...Why the heck am I doing this on a relaxing Sunday afternoon??..??
Have followed instructions & downloaded upgrade only to find every time it gets to 32% it fails & will not go any further, have done this four times outcome always the same, I have 74gb of hard drive free so there should be enough to accommodate the upgrade.
View 9 RepliesI don't really play games and recently started playing Halo on my PC. (running win10 on my mbp). Looking to get a xbox controller for PC.
Is there a different between Xbox One and Xbox 360 controllers for PC?
I have a PC with Asus Z97-Pro mb. OS (W10) is on SSD. Two SATA HDD's (each 1 TB) contain dissimilar data. Can I add a third SATA drive (1TB) and create a RAID-1 configuration with only one of the two existing drives? The mb manual says that when SATA ports are set to RAID mode, all SATA ports run at RAID mode together. Does this mean that I cannot do what I am asking?
View 1 RepliesSince upgrading my SATA DVD/CD RW will not work. I insert a disk the light come on showing it is reading and than the drive opens and the pop up box appears stating "Insert Disk" . So I cannot install any of my software. I have read that a lot of people are having the same problem.
I went into Device Manager and it show this device is working, the drivers show 2006. The Drive is TSST corp CDDCDW SH-203N. I am Dual booting and at least get some work done on the tried and true Win 7 Ult.
I just wanted to ask if it was bad that i had my HDD connected to a eSATA (Asmedia) port when installing my OS? I just tried switching the port from the eSATA ports to the regular SATA ports but it gives me BSOD saying "Inaccesible_Boot_Device". So i just plugged them back in eSATA ports.
View 1 RepliesIt's not even a week when I upgraded to wds 10 ..Now It won't let me roll back.When I fo to Recovery and click roll back ..START .. It keeps showing wds can not find the files to go back even if WINDOW OLD still in drive C "main" drive.The only way to roll back is to restore factory settings ..
View 7 RepliesI bought an XBOX One controller with cable for Windows from Amazon. When I plugged it in, I hear the new device recognition tone but nothing else. Supposedly, the correct driver is part of Windows 10 and nothing else was needed. But it has never vibrated with any game. I've tried updating the driver, even tried it on another pc with Windows 10 and no luck.
View 2 RepliesI have been having a problem with the USB 3.0 ports on my computer.
This computer is a Windows 10 64-bit machine that I built in November. It has an Asus P9X79 LE motherboard, and an Intel i-7 4820 CPU.
A few days ago, I noticed that two external drives attached to the two rear USB 3.0 connections were not showing up among the listed drives. This MB also has a USB 3.0 header, to which I have connected four USB 3.0 ports on the front of the case. I found that my drives, and other USB devices, were recognized and worked fine when plugged into the front ports, but not when plugged into the back.
The first thing I did was check the USB section of the Device Manager. The USB 3.0 controller was listed, and there were no warnings (yellow ! icons) to indicate any problems. Since then, I have tried the following:
First, I searched for hardware changes in the Device Manager. It found nothing.
Second, I deleted the USB 3.0 controller and rebooted to get the system to reinstall the device. It did reinstall the device, but this accomplished nothing.
Third, I updated the BIOS to the latest version on the Asus website. I verified with ASUS that this was indeed the most current version. No change.
Fourth, I updated all chipset drivers for the MB, with the current files on the Asus website. No change.
Then, a couple of days later, the front USB ports stopped working. Checking the Device Manager, the USB 3.0 controller is now missing. Checking online, I found a suggestion that USB 3.0 might be disabled in the BIOS, so..
Fifth, I checked the BIOS settings, and found no way to enable or disable USB 3.0.
One thing that is very odd about this, which the Asus tech commented on, was that the front ports were working while the back ones were not, since they rely on the same controller.
Second, if I were to purchase a PCI-e USB 3.0 board, would it have its own controller, so I won't have to rely on the Asus MB for this functionality?