Razer Tiamat 7.1 Not Playing Steam Chat Audio When In Stereo Mode
Sep 12, 2015
My Razer Tiamat 7.1 headset has a button the the controller that switches to stereo mode. I have it set up in the playback settings on 7.1 surround sound. The stereo mode works with all audio EXCEPT for the Steam chat system (works in steam games). On my playback panel it even shows that it's picking up the chat audio (the green bars). Just no sound coming from the mic. I checked the volume on the Tiamat controller as well.
I always use steam chat with friends and can not play without it since Cs go uses the default steam chat microphone. I use a Logitech G930 USB headset that has worked in the past, but after the 29th of October everything went downhill. List of "Solutions" I have tried: (I'l try and update it)
-Uninstalling steam/reinstalling -uninstalling mic drivers/Logitech software and reinstalling -changing default mic to the G930 -Restarting router (80mbps speed so band with is not an issue) -Restarting computer (Duh)
Whenever I use my in-game voice chat, my game freezes for a random period of time. It's gotten to the point where sometimes my game may freeze for up to five minutes before finally recovering. It's in every single game I play. In rocket league today, whenever I used the voice chat, the connection issues symbol came up and I froze. However, subsequent uses of voice chat for a short period of time after the initial freeze won't freeze the game. I would also like to point out that the game sound loops for the duration of the freeze. I thought I cleared it up last night and then it came back? I noticed that as well when you go to the setting in steam to test the mic after you hit the stop testing mic button it loops. As well the playback setting in windows when you go to the mic locks up for a few. I have tried this as well
Well I tried uninstalling all of the sound drivers and let them reinstall and still did the same thing. I manually installed the realtek driver and it seemed to fix it but when I shut down my pc it started again. I then tried this whole run. Press Windows key + X
Click Command Prompt (Admin)
Type in at the prompt OR Copy and Paste these one at a time : (Hit enter after each)
Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth When the procedures are complete exit the command prompt:
Next, do the following:
Right click on the start button and click Command Prompt (admin) Click Yes
Type: cleanmgr.exe
That seemed to fix it for a night again then turned off the pc and it happened again. Then I was told to try quiet hours and it fixed it then another shut down to leave and back again. So I am still at square one I am sure it's a windows 10 issue as it's only when it's on steam and when I go into recording devices it freezes up there to and if I try to kill the close the window it gives me this Windows shell common dll is not responding then it asks me do I want to close the program or wait for it to respond.
I recently updated to windows 10 and haven't had too many problems, although my Toshiba video player gives me audio but not video when playing dvds. This isn't usually a problem for me unless I'm somewhere that doesn't give me internet access, that's when I'll put on a dvd. My question is how do you fix this? I've tried uninstalling and reinstalling without success. The only other thing I can think of is to go back to windows 8, but I don't really want to do that just yet.
Currently any Microsoft products including Powerpoint, Window Media Player, Microsoft Edge, and any other media program by Microsoft. Decides to have corrupt audio, but whenever i use iTunes or QuickTime player audio is clear.
I have homebuilt core i7 930 running an asus p5 premium. Whether I use onboard sound (realtek), sound blaster pcix titanium, or sound blaster omni usb, I get strange behavior where the sound will drop out while I'm watching a tv app (hdhomerun, or kodi as well), or listening to music.. at random times, could be 5 minutes, could be 45 minutes. To get the sound back, if I click the speaker icon and click the bar that plays the windows ding, it plays (a little crackly during the first few milliseconds, then clear, like it's waking up) and then sound plays normally until this happens again. So it's propagating through multiple different drivers. I read somewhere that audio devices can sleep (I suppose laptops mainly? Maybe I read it wrong).
I recently bought a new Toshiba touch screen Laptop, primarily for my recording studio and on-site recordings. It works well with my DAW Software (Sonar Platinum) and my recording hardware.
However, it does not have the Stereo Mix and from what I find there is no way to add it, as it apparently has been disabled in the hardware.
I have an HP laptop, and my sound card is (displayed using PCIutils for Windows):
Code: Intel Corporation 7 Series / C210 Series
and I am finding difficulties in getting stereo sound from analogical headphones (plugged in with 3.5mm jack). Drivers downloaded from HP or Realtex do not work, drivers supplied by Windows (although they are Realtek drivers as well) sometimes work, I mean: speakers and headphones are shown together at the mixer, and sound from headphones is not stereo. I then go to device manager, audio input and output, and uninstall "Speakers/ Headphones". I then reboot with my headphones plugged in, and, after that, the sound is stereo, and (IIRC) the mixer distinguishes between headphones and speakers.
But then things get broken back soon: one time, the windows updated the sound driver, and no stereo sound again. I uninstalled the device, rebooted, and stereo back. Then I unplugged the headphones, and windows said that no speakers were found: I restarted the audio device, speakers were found again, but stereo broken again.
I got a laptop (Sony Vaio VPCEG17FB). I used to use Windows 7, which was already installed on it when I bought it. It was extremely easy to enable Stereo Mix on Windows 7.
But now I've just installed Windows 10. The same procedure which worked to enable Stereo Mix on Windows 7 doesn't work on Windows 10.
I use an ACER ASPIRE 4736Z laptop running on windows 10 32 bit OS. I have tried many versions of realtek and updated all my audio drivers but still i don't get the option studio quality for the microphone settings in realtek audio manager. Instead i get only CD and DVD quality options. This doesn't work as I always get a hiss when I record using my microphone. I have adjusted the microphone settings in the control panel as well. Need getting the studio quality option for the microphone in realtek audio manager. Find the attached image
I know nothing about computers other than how to get games on steam. WMI provider host is using 10-100% of my cpu. Can i just disable it, or do i need it for something? I end process, it starts again, people saying it might have something to do with CimWin32
I've recently upgraded to Windows 10 via USB (using the download from the microsoft website onto USB and upgraded all my computers). All went well and smoothly, but unfortunately, when I went to start up Dota 2, my screens went black (as normal) but didnt load up the game. It seemed like it just crashes before it even loads anything. I thought that it was a bit weird, so i tried launching Garry's Mod, that did the same thing. I tried Warframe, as that opens a window before you enter the game, but that worked.
Not sure whats going on, heres my PC specs.
CPU - Intel i5 4570 GPU - GTX 780 Gigabyte 3 1080p monitors Motherboard - Z87 Gigabyte (z87m-D3HP to be exact)
My mic is so quiet on steam and skype, starting from a couple of days ago, up until then my mic was perfect. I have checked many forms and youtube videos with no success.
I had a question about windows 10 and the Xbox one. I heard you could steam Xbox one game's from the X1 to the PC. I was wondering could you steam Xbox one games from the PC ( using PC hardware ) and steam it to the X1 ??
I recently downloaded windows 10 and am currently using it, since then whenever I boot up geometry dash from steam, the games music would be replaced by the sound of crackling which is very bad. I have a texture pack installed on geometry dash.
I'm about to buy a new Win 10 gaming rig and wanted to transfer my entire Steam programs + files (most of the games I currently play are *unfortunately* on STEAM) from my old Win 7 rig using an external HDD.
I have changed my router. Is a 'FritzBox fon WLAN 7170'. First i connected, it was all good, i tried to connect to browser and it was good. Then i tried to connect Steam. "Could not connect to the steam network, either check your connection and click 'Retry' or start Steam in offline mode."I looked up for the probem, tried to:
- start the shortcut with -tcp - turn the firewall off - remove Steam from processes - uninstall Steam and install it again. - delete all files from Steam (without steamapps folder)
I tried other games online, they don't work either..I saw that video - Fritz!Box Firewall Port forwarding - YouTube (is 3:22 minutes long, if you want to watch it)I saw on the internet i can connect to the router settings with WIFI connection and i can't connect (CMD - ipconfig - Default Gateway in the browser).
Do i need to port forwoard all of them ?Is the Dynamic DNS the case?Why is the IPV6 with "No network access"? -Is the IPV6 important for online games?Do i need to set IPV6 ON?
my game volume and my chat volume are mixed so that when I turn up my chat volume, my game volume also turns up. when I turn up my game volume, it doesn't turn it up, but when I turn up my chat volume, it turns up both my game and chat volume. How can I fix it so that my game volume and chat volume are different?
I can get Steam to launch, but only after having the PC be in sleep mode. I can't get Steam to start with Windows 10 either. I've uninstalled, reinstalled, deleted the blob files and various other things several times. No clue what the issue is.
My PC is the HP ENVY TouchSmart M7-J120DX with Beats Audio quad speakers and two subwoofers. After running a clean installation of Windows 10, my volume icon had an error "no audio device output" / IDT High Definition Audio Codec. The troubleshooting option did nothing. I uninstalled my audio device, and restarted my pc. My sound is back, but it seems that the middle speakers are the only ones working. My volume icon and sound device now is labeled "High Definition Audio Device" which now sounds substandard, just like those cheap tinny speakers you can find at the dollar store. How to recover my original great-sounding original speakers!
I don't know if this started since Windows 10, but I use headphones for PC sound and if I go outside to smoke a cigarette or something I take my headphones with me so I can listen to music from my phone. When I come back and replug my headphones into my PC, audio no longer works in games, FL studio, YouTube videos, etc. Until I restart the entire program. Systemsounds work fine after replugging but audio in anything other than Windows don't
I've been having this issue for nearly a year now (probably around 9 months). It started after my little sister made me get a virus by her trying to download something onto my laptop. I've since taken it to a reputable computer shop as well as followed instructions from other computer wizs and I think it's no longer there. Issue is, my computer has kind of developed another problem after that. It freezes on it's own sometimes, when I pick it up or even when it's on a desk and immobile. It would also freeze when I play a game sometimes, loud buzzing sound as the game continues in loops I believe. I had BSOD problems earlier this year that was solved (Apparently. I haven't gotten any in about 4-5 months) when I had Windows 7 but this issue still persists.
When it would freeze and I manually turn off my computer and turn it back on, the laptop would sometimes say no wifi could be detected. At all. Not mine, not my neighbors, nothing. I've never really taken it out of the house so I don't know if it'd act the same elsewhere. I would then shut it down and take out the battery for 30 seconds before putting it back in. Sometimes the wifi would work then or I'd go connect it to my Internet Modem and the wifi would start working over there too.
So I'm not sure what's causing this problem. It's not overheating as I had it cleaned less than 4 months ago by a professional. I've had this laptop for two years and I really wanted it to last me at least 4 because I'll be going into an animation program soon and to get a laptop of the same caliber costs $1000+.
Is there anyway I can solve this freezing issue/loss of wifi on my own? I'm thinking of taking it back to the computer shop (they've had a hard time trying to find out what's wrong with it) but I'm sure they'll charge me again and I'm not willing to end up paying a lot to get this fixed. Might as well buy a new one if it costs more than $500 to fix...
P.S. I'm also having issues with my sound card where I'd plug in my headphones and it would work but when I take it out, my laptop would say it's still plugged in. Addtionally, my CD Rom Drive makes a loud sound when I try to skip through CDs and DVDs. Sometimes it won't even skip and just continue making the sound. I don't know how my laptop has gotten to this state as I've taken very good care of it (minus allowing a younger sibling to use it but you live and learn). These issues don't bother me much as I can use a DVD player for my DVD's and the sound issue isn't an issue for me. I don't really care for it since I use headphones 90% of the time or have the sound off.
I turned on high contrast mode. Now it won't change back to normal mode no matter what I do. I tried selecting None in the dialog box for high contrast mode and all the other modes.
