i have dual monitor setup for windows 10. but when sleep mode on, after wake up the PC only the primary monitor is waking up. other monitor not working.
It was ok when i was using windows 8.1. but it causing problem after windows 10 installed. I already updated all drivers including display drivers.
This is probably the most painful issue I have with Windows 10 right now (and likely previous versions as well, but I didn't have a multi-monitor setup back then).
The monitors I have are as follows: 3840x2160 (4K UHD) monitor with preferred DPI: 144 (150%)1920x1080 (Full HD) monitor with preferred DPI: 96 (100%)
Whenever one of these monitors are set as primary, all desktop applications displayed on the secondary monitor (doesn't matter which) has blurry text. Exceptions are the Windows Store Apps like Windows Store and Microsoft Edge, along with the Taskbar/Start Menu, the Taskbar/Start Menu settings screen, the Taskbar context menu, and the desktop context menu which passes the DPI test with flying colours, with crispy text on both monitors (occasionally a DPI switch bug gets in, but I can mostly ignore that). The problem is, as you can probably guess, is that >99% of the applications I use aren't Windows Store Apps.
Here are some screenshots. The "Taskbar and Start Menu Properties" text is what the text should look like while the Visual Studio 2015 text is an example of the text most desktop apps get. The blurry image is what happens when the UHD monitor is not the primary monitor. Attachment 48493Attachment 48494 Note: Both of these screenshots came from the 150% DPI monitor so it's best viewed at that (144) DPI level. The 96 DPI monitor is similarly affected.
Things I've already tried: Reinstall the graphics driver. Did this multiple times in fact for unrelated reasons.Reinstall Windows 10 (through Reset This PC recovery option). I did this for also unrelated reasons but it definitely doesn't fix this issue.Use the XP Explorer "fix". Merely worsens the problem. Adjusting Clear Type options. Alleviates the issue a bit but see next point.Disabling Clear Type on the affected monitor. The text obviously sharpens, but it's painful to read and a close inspection of the text reveals the issue isn't solved at all, only mitigated slightly.Replacing the video card. I swapped this in with my older GTX 560 Ti but it's obvious the problem remains. Both it and my current card are NVIDIAs though, so it's vaguely possible the drivers or the cards themselves are the cause. I don't have an ATI/AMD card (that still works, at least) to test the setup and every Intel iGPU I have either has only one monitor output or is incapable of handling UHD resolutions.
Things I won't try: Setting both monitors' DPI to 96. Text would become microscopic considering the UHD monitor's actual size.Use the text resizing feature instead. I'm going take a wild guess that this is not monitor-specific and would cause everything on the HD monitor to be far too large to the point that I'd rather unplug it.
Looking for multi-resolution, multi-DPI, multi-monitor setup with or without this issue? The text is painful to read on whichever is the secondary monitor right now, and is extremely apparent whenever the background is dark.
today my desktop went to sleep mode, and i had problems waking it up, i didnt know how to do it.Whats the default way to do this in a desktop pc? And even better if its possible, i would like to be able to wake pc by mouse clicking, is there any posible way to do this?
View 1 RepliesI've been running a multi-monitor setup for a while now, with an ASUS VG248QE 144Hz monitor as my main, and one or more spare monitors as secondary displays. I've set the ASUS monitor to 144Hz without issue in the past, while the other monitors stay at 60Hz.
The other night, Windows wanted to update. I figured it was the usual patch session, so I let it do its thing. However, after restarting my computer, I noticed that my ASUS monitor would only operate at 144Hz if it was the only monitor plugged into the system. When I try to set it higher in the Nvidia control panel, it just reverts back to 60Hz after applying changes. I updated my graphics drivers (though I was only one version behind) and even sought a special ASUS driver for the monitor to resolve the issue, but nothing has worked.
Did Windows recently add a forced refresh rate sync between all monitors recently? If so, that really sucks because I only own one 144Hz monitor.
I installed Windows 10 and found some apps did not fit the monitor screen (too big). I went in and changed the monitor resolution to a larger size (windows recommended 1920 x 1080) but I tried something larger, and now the monitor has a black screen with a little box moving around which says "input not supported". Not being able to use that monitor to go in and change it back, I hooked up a flat screen t.v. which worked but Windows only showed the current monitor size (which was smaller than the original monitor.
I tried the monitor on another computer I have also running Windows 10 and it worked fine. It shows the resolution as 1920 x 1080. When I plugged it back into the original computer I get the same plack screen with "input not supported" so I can't change it there. I suspect the issue is with the registry somewhere in Windows 10 on the first computer, but what the problem is. I've been working on this for a whole day now. You can probably tell I'm not well versed in computer technology. I just want my old monitor back (Acer K272HL) and I promise I won't mess around with it again.
I recently got a new monitor, an Eizo EV2750, which Windows only recognizes as a generic PnP monitor.
I've tried connecting it thorugh DisplayPort, HDMI and DVI without any luck. The often mentioned sollution, to unlplug everything and wait 10 minutes, does not work either.
The graphics card seems to read the EDID however, as in nVidia control panel it displays correctly as EV2750. Same thing with other applications, like DisplayCAL which I use as my color management system.
Seems like it's only an issue with Windows. This issue, however, also means that I can't get full functionality from the monitor. For instance, the ambient light sensor does not work (which is typical when Windows doesn't recognize the display properly).
So recently I upgraded to windows 10 at the same time I got a 4k display.When I set the display scaling to 150% on my main 4k monitor and ensuring that the scaling stays at 100% on my other two 1080p monitors, the entire chrome application is blurry when viewing on the 1080 monitors, and I cannot seem to fix this. Other applications seem to be okay.
Furthermore after the scaling change, some icons on my 1080 monitor's desktop get larger, as if some scaling is applied to them. Is there any solution to this? At the moment I have had to set the scaling back to 100% on my main monitor in order to use chrome on the smaller monitors.
I just installed Windows 10. Now my laptop monitor won't work - only the external monitor. I go to Graphic setting and click on multiple displays, but it states it doesn't see another device only the external monitor. Tried disconnecting the external monitor and rebooting, but the laptop display still doesn't turn on.
View 1 RepliesI am running Windows 10
MSI R9 390 GPU
AMD Catalyst version 15.7.1
Main monitor is CrossOver QHD270 via Dual Link DVI
Second display is a Vizio TV via HDMI/DisplayPort
So I was messing around with a 3 display setup for the first time today, one monitor (DVI) and two TVs (one HDMI, one DisplayPort). Everything worked okay, and I could unplug one TV, but when I unplugged the second TV, my monitor went to a black screen. As soon as I plugged the TV back in, the monitor started working again. The main monitor I use every day is now completely dependent on a TV I occasionally use as a second display to be plugged in to function. When I turn on the computer with just the monitor plugged in, I can see the BIOS load up, and the first Windows 10 logo, but as soon as the password screen should be shown, the screen goes black. I tried uninstalling my graphics drivers. When the drivers were completely uninstalled, the monitor functioned normally, but as soon at AMD Catalyst Control Center was reinstalled, it went black until the TV was plugged back in. I've tried plugging the TV up through HDMI and DisplayPort, it makes no difference. Also, my monitor is listed as the main display in both CCC and Windows 10 display settings. Every once in a while when I unplug the TV, the Monitor will get darker and slowly fade to black instead of going straight to black.
I wanted to make an image of my machine since upgrading to Windows 10 and saw it kept on including my secondary drive (which has over 600 gigs of movies). I am not able to uncheck it.
I figured what the hell and disconnected the drive.My box will not boot without the drive!
I just built this machine back in December and I used a 500GB SSD for my main drive, while I have 2 regular HDD's for storage and movies.
I turned off, "hide protected operating system files" and found the folders "Boot, Recovery, System Volume information and $Recycle Bin" all showing up!
how this drive got dragged into the install, but I certainly do not want my main drive depending on it to boot.
I don't want to change ownership of the files and delete then manually either since I have a strong feeling it will kill my system.
how to go about "unlinking" these 2 drives?
Windows recognizes my secondary drive, a Western Digital, SATA WD5000AAKS 500 gig. However, anytime I access it the system lags, files freeze and it acts like it's being re-cataloged. I never had this problem prior to Windows 10, and my other computers have no problem accessing the secondary drive through the Home Group.
View 2 RepliesDuring startup of Win 10, the options given to proceed with include Windows 10 and System Restore.
I now have Win 10 on one of my laptop's internal 2.5" HDD. And I've restored to Win 7 (home premium) on my other 2.5" HDD that sometimes is temporarily in the bay of the internal drive that Win 10 is now running on.
With one of those drives in the 2.5" usb HDD enclosure, how can give the Win 10 startup window an optional link that can open and run Win 7 of the plugged in enclosure. IOW, can the startup screen be tweaked so that I can avoid temporarily putting the Win 7 HDD in the internal bay in place of the 2.5" drive that Win 10 runs on (to run Win 7 on the external drive)?
I have windows 10 pro 64 bit. I am running a 120gb SSD for my OS and a 1.5TB HDD for media and games. Whenever I put the computer in standby or sleep mode the HDD is not recognized when the computer wakes up. Upon restart the HDD is recognized and everything is groovy.
View 1 RepliesI just did a fresh install of windows 10, and I have decided to try and start with a better form of organization. I want to try and keep my SSD with my OS on it as clear as possible. By doing that I wanted to keeps all my pictures and documents, videos, etc on my second hdd.
That is simple enough. What I want to know is if there is an easy way to have it set so every time I add pictures or music it stores on the secondary drive and still shows up in my "Pictures" file. How do you organize?
I have disable system protection on my primary (C:) which is an SSD.
When trying to enable system protection on my 1TB HDD (E:), the option is simply greyed out.
I had hoped to save writes on my SSD to increase it's lifespan, and it appears to be recommended in various SSD optimisation guides. Is it at all possible to enable system restore points to be saved on other hard drives?
I upgraded from Win 7 Pro to Win 10 Pro yesterday and so far everything works great, the only problem is that my secondary HDD always stays on. I have a 128GB SSD as my main drive and an 750GB HDD as my secondary drive for games, pictures and stuff. Since the latter runs at 7200rpm and is quite loud and my laptop is otherwise pretty much completely silent (when I turn the fan on stealth mode) I had created a power profile for studying that turns off hard drives after 1 minute of not using them and with windows 7 that worked just fine.
Now though, my secondary HDD never turns off. I checked task manager and resource monitor and found that my pagefile was on my secondary so I moved that to my SSD, but now it still doesn't turn off, even when Task manager and resource manager tell me nothing has accessed it for several minutes.
My PC has three hard drives. A Samsung solid state drive (840 series) that has windows and all games / programs on it, and two older Samsung HDD's (HD753LJ, about 7 years old) that I use to store videos, photos, music etc. It had been working fine in this configuration with Windows 7 for years.
I recently upgraded to windows 10 (in place upgrade, not a clean install) which worked OK except one of the two HDD's was not found by Windows 10. After a couple of turn off / turn back on cycles it found it and was OK for a little while. However it stopped finding it again and now hasn't worked for a few weeks.
If I boot into BIOS it lists all three hard drives as boot options, but only two come up in disk manager / device manager / my computer within Windows 10. Is this a Windows 10 problem or is the hard drive dying? (The timing would be very coincidental if it's not a windows problem).
I am trying to install the latest Windows 10 Technical Preview build (64-Bit) on my secondary HDD. I have Windows 8.1 Pro (64-Bit) installed on an SSD. I have a 1 TB Seagate HDD that I use to store games. I made a new 146GB partition on that HDD where I want to install W10. Each time I try I get the error 0x80300024. I've tried reformatting, I've tried a smaller partition that left extra space on the hard drive, etc. I'm installing using a bootable USB 3.0 flashdrive.
View 1 RepliesI have Windows 10 installed on my SSD primary drive. I also have a 4 TB RAID 10 array that I want to remove to reutilise the disks in my new NAS. However...
If I remove the drives, windows won't boot. I've seen various errors, but basically it loads to logo, spins round and round and then halts, usually with "inaccessible boot device".
I just upgraded to an SSD and installed a fresh copy of windows onto it. I would like to delete windows off of my old hard drive and delete the old drivers off of it as well. I have a bunch of games on it that I'd rather not have to re-download so is there any way of doing this without formatting the drive?
View 1 RepliesI just installed Windows 10 and have got a problem that has me stumped. I have two GPUs, an EVGA GTX 760 as my primary and a GTX 560 Ti running a second monitor. The 760 had no issues in the upgrade, but no matter what I do to the 560, it shows up in device manager as Code 43. I'm trying to gauge if it's an issue with the fact I have two dissimilar GPUs or a bit of software not liking that particular card. My gut says software, but I don't know exactly what. I've done some googling to the effect and seems to be I'm not the only one with troubles but didn't find a fix that worked.I don't want to roll back just yet and my 760 can pick up the slack easily, so if there's a fix on the horizon I can wait. Otherwise, I'll have to check my options.
View 1 RepliesI have an SSD (This PC) for Windows, HDD (secondary disk) for files and whatnot. Running Windows 10 64-bit Home.
I saw that you could move apps to another disk through Apps & features in Settings, so I decided to try it out.
I moved an app to my secondary disk, and it cluttered up with like 3 folders (my personal folder, WindowsApps, wpsystem). Changed my mind on this, and moved the app back to my SSD.
I tried deleting the extra folders left over...only to find out that WindowsApps can't be deleted on my secondary disk.
So, basically:
WindowsApps is completely empty on my secondary disk. I tried taking ownership, tried Unlocker, tried the administrator account, tried changing security options. They were all denied access, what to do next.
Am I stuck with this empty WindowsApps folder on my secondary disk?
I set the Storage option for Windows Store to start installing apps too my D:/ Because of that, it created a folder called WindowsApps.Now it's time that I want to delete that folder, and all access is denied.
I tried changing the permissions to my admin account and all, but I'm still not able to remove it.
Is there any way for me to remove this folder without having to reformat the drive?
My setup before the problem was:
- Windows 8.1 in a 250GB SSD with Linux dual boot
- Secondary 160GB HDD (fs: ntfs, type: primary)
- Secondary 3TB HDD (fs: ntfs, type: gpt)
The 3TB drive was working normally on windows 8.1 when I bought it. After some months I decided to upgrade to Windows 10. After that, I cannot access my drive and Disk Management shows just grey options for the drive.
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After that I did a clean Windows 8.1 install again just to see if it was an OS problem, but now the same is going on with the management system. I used MiniTool Partition Wizard to check what's going on and this is what it shows
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What I tried doing is to force a label on this drive with MiniTool (in this case, D:, but then when I try to access the folders in Explorer it says 'D: is not accessible, access denied'. I already tried giving me all permissions/full control in the security tab in various ways but none worked, it still said 'Access Denied'.
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The only way I could finally access it is by killing explorer.exe and then starting it again with Admin rights, but once I reboot the system, the drive dissappears again and I have to do everything all over (assign label with MiniTool -> kill explorer -> open explorer with admin rights).
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P.S: Before you ask, I am not trying to recover deleted data. The partition exists, and I can access it through MiniTool Partition Wizard (since it recognizes it as a active EFI Healthy Partition on a GPT formatted drive). The problem is trying to access through Windows Explorer to the data.
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Win 10 updated automatically (unfortunately) and this morning all desktop items have moved from primary to secondary display and I can't move them back. Unrelated but any way for stopping these updates completely??
View 2 RepliesI have two hard drives in my pc. One is a small ssd for windows and the other is a large HDD for all of my programs and games.
I want office to be installed on my HDD. I bought office and downloaded the setup file but when I run it, I get no options or anything.
As soon as I open it it installs office to my ssd but I want it on the HDD. How do I install it on my HDD?