Experiencing an issue of flash drives that are detected and functioning fine for a while spontaneously losing their connection to Win 10 Home? I don't have the issue in Win 7. One of the devices is brand new and has never been used on any other PC or OS. I reformatting another one that was originally provisioned on XP. No change afterwards, it still works fine in Win 7 and still has the issue in Win 10.
View 1 RepliesWhy do I constatnly lose my internet connection since upgrading to Windows 10? Did not have this problem with Windows 7 and Century Link. Once it is gone, cannot get it to reconnect. Keep getting a reset error message each time when running the diagnostics. If I can't resolve this soon, will be going back to Windows 7!!
View 3 RepliesI just recently bought a new laptop with windows 10 pre installed on it. The issue I'm having is that my connection to internet keeps disappearing even though I'm still connected to my wifi. On my former laptop, I didn't have this issue (windows 7) so I'm quite convinced the problem isn't with my wifi or router.
I've searched on this topic but only finding people with same problem but difference is that they UPDATED TO windows 10 while I had it pre installed.
My drivers are updated to the latest versions and I'm not sure what's causing this problem but it's really getting annoying now.
I have a Packard Bell Easynote TK37 that has recently been "upgraded" to windows 10 and ever since keeps randomly losing internet connection. This is happening nearly every time I use the pc, it loses connection for 30seconds or so then reconnects.
The network adapter is Broadcom 802.11N
Connected to a Virgin superhub.
I have Avast internet security installed.
OS: Windows 10 Home, 64-bit
PC: HP Pavillion g6 notebook
Network adapters: Ralink RT5390R 8-2.11bgn Wi-Fi Adapter (Date: 5/18/2015, Version: 5.0.57.0), and Realtek PCle FE Family Controller (Date: 4/01/2015, Version: 9.1.401.2015)
Problem: Every once in a while, I'll lose my internet connection. When I click the wifi icon on the taskbar, there will be no networks listed. The only way to fix the problem is to go the Device Manager, disable the Ralink Wi-Fi Adapter and then re-enable it. This fixes the problem anywhere from a of couple minutes to a couple of hours, then it happens again.
Solutions I've tried: I've tried doing a system restore but it failed and there are no more restore points. I've tried uninstalling the Ralink driver, downloading a new copy, and reinstalling it.
I have a Intel AC 7260 WAN card in my laptop which is running Windows 10 x64. After about 10-15 minutes I will lose internet connection while still being connected to the SSID.
I installed the latest Intel AC 7260 drivers from here. Also I ran a complete scan with Malwarebytes which didn't find any threats. This issue started a few days ago.
Anyway of seeing if a application is causing this connection lose issue? It is only happening with this one device.
Lately, every flash drive I've bought requires to be NTFS formatted. Quick formatting gives me the option to change allocation size. Is there a specific size I should be using or just go small?
View 4 RepliesI have recently bought a 32gb micro sd card from eBay and was wondering if there is some kind of check I can do to make sure it has correct memory on it, I have heard that some of the sd, hard drives and flash cards from eBay are being faked and what looks like a 500gb hard drive people find out later that its just a 1gb flash drive inside with some kind of modded files in it that makes it look like a 500gb drive, upon transferring files they just delete anything past 1gb.
View 5 RepliesMy Windows 10 File Explorer is muddled showing many items, and in particular USB Flash Drives twice!
View 4 RepliesAfter installing Win-10 with a Flash Drive, The Flash Drive no longer visible either in My PC Folder or in Disk Management Thought this was a Isolated incident, Apparently not as 2 other flash dives i have have also disappeared, Really strange as 1 of the flash drives is less then 2 weeks old, Tried to find them using CMD & Diskpart but noting visible there either .
Flash Drive 1 16GB - Kingston DataTraveler 2.0
Flash Drive 2 16GB - SanDisk Cruiser Blade 2.0
Flash Drive 3 8GB - Was a Gift Dont Know Make 2.0
My Motherboard is USB v3.0 (Incase u need this info)
Win10, diagnostic message is:"one or more protocols is missing".Running diagnostic as Administrator message is:" connection between access point, router or cable modem and Internet is broken".Have tried winsock reset, clean reboot neither solved the problem.What does ISO stand for. P
View 1 RepliesSo, I had an old HP computer that broke. The HDD is perfectly fine though, and I need the files in it. It has Windows 10 on it ( Updated from Windows 8.1) if that matters. I will be building a new Overkill Pc Rig rhat I want to incluse with the old HDD. Can I use it to boot windows 10? If not I can use the USB I have with windows and just install windows on my new SSD. But even though I boot from USB and install the OS on the SSD, can I still use my HDD? And can I use it without losing any files or documents? The documents in there are very important.
View 1 RepliesI want to reinstall my windows 10 without losing all my data. Is there a program which can carry everything( including other programs) except the old os to the new install?
View 1 RepliesHow can I install windows 10 without losing any of my files or games? I am on windows 8.1 and only have one hard drive. Will I need to save all my files to an external HDD then put it back on when windows 10 is installed?
I was also thinking of downloading assassins creed unity cause I am getting a new GPU soon should I wait until windows 10 is on for that or will it be no hassle to move it over?
I want to install Windows 10 64-bit from USB without losing my files .
I have two drives in system. Can I at least save files in one drive (which is not a system drive) ?
Currently I have Windows 10-32 bit.
I purchase my laptop last March and was running 8.1. I upgraded to 10 and am now having issues with wifi being connected and then losing wifi connection for only outlook and micorsoft edge. I can still access the internet through chrome or internet explorer. I have call Microsoft twice and they have not corrected the problem. I took the laptop back to Micro Center and they could not find any issues. The first session with Microsoft the technician removed some temp files and ran a malware program, which seemed to fix the problem, but the fix only lasted an hour or so. Wifi will come back by waiting for a while or by shutting down or by signing out and signing back.
View 5 RepliesMy C Drive Keeps losing Space and yesterday i had 14gb then it went to 799mb and it keeps going down every 5 mins URL>...
View 9 RepliesI have factory reset once before with windows 10 and it let me keep windows 10 when I did it. But now I want to do it again but it is showing me a notice that if i reset, I will go back to windows 7. Is there a way I can factory reset my pc while still keeping windows 10?
Also I have another question but I don't want to make another thread about it. In games such as cs go, why is my game freezing for no reason? About every 30 sec - 1 min, i freeze for about 5-10 seconds. Between the freezes, i get split second freezes. I am getting a constant 200 fps and 10 ping
I have a 500GB HDD divided into 3 partitions: The main one currently doesn't have an OS, the secondary one has Windows 10 64bits and the third one has Windows 7 64.
I want to carry(backup and then restore) the Windows 10 from the secondary partition over to the main one but without losing all the data on the main partition(movies, games, programs, etc.). How do I do that if possible?
I have two partitions that I'd like to merge into one.
First, none of them has OS on it. I have Windows 10 and all software on SSD disk which is partition C. Partition E is for games and it's around 300 GB, while partition F is for other files and it's 700 GB. 1 TB drive in total.
I'd like to merge E and F partitions and keep the data on both. First I tried to keep both of them but shrink the F and extend E with unlocalized space, but for some reason Windows default software isn't allowing me to extend E with unlocalized space.
I'd like to know if there's any good and reliable software to merge those partitions and keep the data on merged partition. Shrinking F and extending E is also an option.
I had been dual-booting between win 7 and win 10. That part was working fine, but I was unhappy wth my win 10 installation. So I erased the partition and reinstalled it. First sign of trouble: It didn't detect my win 7 installation. But it was there (I already got files from it). I installed EasyBCD, added the entry for win 7, saved the set up, then wrote the MBR with the new entry. Went to MSConfig to doublecheck. Both entries were there. I restarted, and it booted straight into Win 10. EasyBCD no longer had the win 7 entry. Neither did MSConfig. Went through the whole process again. Same problem at restart. And it wasn't fastboot, I could see the BIOS entry, etc.
View 9 RepliesThis is a new behavior over the past few days - the default printer becomes unchecked, leaving me unable to print. Happens with or without a reboot. This would be relatively easy to fix each time, except that the Devices & Printers page takes 30-60 seconds to open
View 9 RepliesI even went to the point going to the configure in Network Adapter Settings > Configure > Ticked off Allowed The Computer To Turn Off This Device To Save Power
It worked For 15 minutes or so, then the Wifi kept on dropping out, I've Restarted and Done All The Router Stuff, That Other Blogs Suggested, Still Nothing, Wifi continuously Drives me insane, now it drops to 2 bars of signal all the time.
I also did ipconfig/ flushdns and that didn't work either, though i was hoping it would, but anyway, I have port forwarded my IP so I can play Mine Craft with my cousin, but other than That, why it just drops constantly in wifi signal all the time.
What I can do to get it staying 5/4 bars signal Strength and not drop when I'm watching Netflix or playing Mine Craft or Battlefield 4 Multi Player. what else I can do, if they need my Wire Less info/name of it, it is
Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 3160
and yes it is up to date in patches and etc... it worked fine even in Windows 7 Home and Windows 8.1 Home, but as soon as I grabbed Windows 10 Home Update, it just keeps on doing this annoying bug.
I took part in the free upgrade offer from 7 and used the media creation tool to upgrade (probably should have waited for the upgrade notification but meh), It worked my windows 10 is activated but, I noticed that it wasn't a clean install and I'm not too fond of that so is it possible for me to do a clean install and be able to activate it still?
View 4 RepliesI use Outlook 2016 as my e-mail program and it has always worked great. A few days ago I noticed that I was not getting some e-mail that had been sent to me. I know this because the e-mail was sent to a group. I had one of the group members forward the e-mail to me. I checked everything out in that message and it was totally correct. As a matter of fact 10 minutes earlier that same sender had sent another group e-mail and I got that one. The e-mail sender checked to see that the message was sent and not bounced back for some reason.
The problem has gotten worse, yesterday I almost got no e-mail and I know that I was sent a bunch of stuff. I even went to my neighbor and sent myself a test e-mail and it did not arrive. I am pretty sure it is not my system causing the problem because I have an Android tablet and it does not get the e-mails either. The thing that really has me puzzled is I am still getting some e-mail, mainly from advertisers.
I contacted my Internet Service Provider yesterday to see if they are having some problem. They are checking into it but there is nothing they are aware about.
Still losing wifi sporadically for no apparent reason. Other devices still working on same wifi router, so signal is not a problem. It drops off at least once a day.
Tried all the recommended fixes including updated drivers, down-shifting to 802.11b.
Only "solution" is to disconnect and reconnect. Feels like going back to dial up days!! This part of Win 10 is appalling - NOT an improvement. And of course it always happens as the most inopportune time.
I initially went back to Win 7 and it all worked fine for over a week without one issue. As soon as I returned to Win 10 it started immediately, so it's definitely a Win 10 issue.