I recently downloaded windows 10 and am currently using it, since then whenever I boot up geometry dash from steam, the games music would be replaced by the sound of crackling which is very bad. I have a texture pack installed on geometry dash.
So i don't know what happened to my computer last night (Maybe it did an automatic update) I did a normal shutdown, and in the morning after I couldn't boot my Windows 10. It won't go pass the black screen with the blinking dash. I don't want to do a fresh install. I got all my important files in this computer.
When I turn on my laptop, it shows a black screen with non-flashing dash on top left after Lenovo logo. I did the clean install but it didn't work. After that,I tried to clean install Windows 10 on my old HDD and it works! Why my SSD isn't work?
What does it mean when you see a black screen that has a grey flashing dash located at the top left-hand corner of the screen? It moves down a bit before finally moving onto the Windows 10 logo, where it sometimes gets stuck and reboots (and the grey dash screen appears again before moving on).
I noticed this issue both during upgrade (when it failed and tried to recover the installation) and after installation. This issue occurred on an Acer Aspire Z5801. It does not occur on Windows 7.
I have msi laptop Windows 7 now I updated online to Windows 10 and reset. After reset now my laptop screen is blank and dash line blinking on top left side. Nothing working tried lot by pressing f10, f2, ctrl+alt+del...
I know nothing about computers other than how to get games on steam. WMI provider host is using 10-100% of my cpu. Can i just disable it, or do i need it for something? I end process, it starts again, people saying it might have something to do with CimWin32
I've recently upgraded to Windows 10 via USB (using the download from the microsoft website onto USB and upgraded all my computers). All went well and smoothly, but unfortunately, when I went to start up Dota 2, my screens went black (as normal) but didnt load up the game. It seemed like it just crashes before it even loads anything. I thought that it was a bit weird, so i tried launching Garry's Mod, that did the same thing. I tried Warframe, as that opens a window before you enter the game, but that worked.
Not sure whats going on, heres my PC specs.
CPU - Intel i5 4570 GPU - GTX 780 Gigabyte 3 1080p monitors Motherboard - Z87 Gigabyte (z87m-D3HP to be exact)
My mic is so quiet on steam and skype, starting from a couple of days ago, up until then my mic was perfect. I have checked many forms and youtube videos with no success.
I had a question about windows 10 and the Xbox one. I heard you could steam Xbox one game's from the X1 to the PC. I was wondering could you steam Xbox one games from the PC ( using PC hardware ) and steam it to the X1 ??
I'm about to buy a new Win 10 gaming rig and wanted to transfer my entire Steam programs + files (most of the games I currently play are *unfortunately* on STEAM) from my old Win 7 rig using an external HDD.
I have changed my router. Is a 'FritzBox fon WLAN 7170'. First i connected, it was all good, i tried to connect to browser and it was good. Then i tried to connect Steam. "Could not connect to the steam network, either check your connection and click 'Retry' or start Steam in offline mode."I looked up for the probem, tried to:
- start the shortcut with -tcp - turn the firewall off - remove Steam from processes - uninstall Steam and install it again. - delete all files from Steam (without steamapps folder)
I tried other games online, they don't work either..I saw that video - Fritz!Box Firewall Port forwarding - YouTube (is 3:22 minutes long, if you want to watch it)I saw on the internet i can connect to the router settings with WIFI connection and i can't connect (CMD - ipconfig - Default Gateway in the browser).
Do i need to port forwoard all of them ?Is the Dynamic DNS the case?Why is the IPV6 with "No network access"? -Is the IPV6 important for online games?Do i need to set IPV6 ON?
Whenever I use my in-game voice chat, my game freezes for a random period of time. It's gotten to the point where sometimes my game may freeze for up to five minutes before finally recovering. It's in every single game I play. In rocket league today, whenever I used the voice chat, the connection issues symbol came up and I froze. However, subsequent uses of voice chat for a short period of time after the initial freeze won't freeze the game. I would also like to point out that the game sound loops for the duration of the freeze. I thought I cleared it up last night and then it came back? I noticed that as well when you go to the setting in steam to test the mic after you hit the stop testing mic button it loops. As well the playback setting in windows when you go to the mic locks up for a few. I have tried this as well
Well I tried uninstalling all of the sound drivers and let them reinstall and still did the same thing. I manually installed the realtek driver and it seemed to fix it but when I shut down my pc it started again. I then tried this whole run. Press Windows key + X
Click Command Prompt (Admin)
Type in at the prompt OR Copy and Paste these one at a time : (Hit enter after each)
Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth When the procedures are complete exit the command prompt:
Next, do the following:
Right click on the start button and click Command Prompt (admin) Click Yes
Type: cleanmgr.exe
That seemed to fix it for a night again then turned off the pc and it happened again. Then I was told to try quiet hours and it fixed it then another shut down to leave and back again. So I am still at square one I am sure it's a windows 10 issue as it's only when it's on steam and when I go into recording devices it freezes up there to and if I try to kill the close the window it gives me this Windows shell common dll is not responding then it asks me do I want to close the program or wait for it to respond.
I can get Steam to launch, but only after having the PC be in sleep mode. I can't get Steam to start with Windows 10 either. I've uninstalled, reinstalled, deleted the blob files and various other things several times. No clue what the issue is.
My Razer Tiamat 7.1 headset has a button the the controller that switches to stereo mode. I have it set up in the playback settings on 7.1 surround sound. The stereo mode works with all audio EXCEPT for the Steam chat system (works in steam games). On my playback panel it even shows that it's picking up the chat audio (the green bars). Just no sound coming from the mic. I checked the volume on the Tiamat controller as well.
I always use steam chat with friends and can not play without it since Cs go uses the default steam chat microphone. I use a Logitech G930 USB headset that has worked in the past, but after the 29th of October everything went downhill. List of "Solutions" I have tried: (I'l try and update it)
-Uninstalling steam/reinstalling -uninstalling mic drivers/Logitech software and reinstalling -changing default mic to the G930 -Restarting router (80mbps speed so band with is not an issue) -Restarting computer (Duh)
In my desktop I have two hard disks ( disk 0 and disk 1 ) . Disk 1 is a clone of disk 0 created by Macrium Reflect Disk 0 : ( C: ) windows 10 pro , upgrade from windows 7 , ( E: ) windows 8.1 pro , ( G: ) Storage partition Disk 1 : clone of disk 0
problem description : I see in msconfig / boot a wrong listing
windows 10 ( C:WINDOWS) : Current OS ; Default OS
windows 8.1 pro ( H:WINDOWS ) instead of ( E:WINDOWS )
Nevertheless the dual booting works fine as well as the shift between the disks via BIOS.
The question is , could I fix the situation using the EasyBCD of Neosmart Technologies to edit the bootloader ?
I see can change drive letter H: to E: and save the change , am I right or wrong ? or any other way ....
After installing a 32 bit windows 10 from a USB by mistake I decided to upgrade to the 64 bit version. I have 3 hard drives, one of which is an ssd that I am trying to install the OS to. After downloading and setting up the media creation tool and creating a USB I restarted and boot form USB.
I followed the steps and deleted the existing windows 10 partitions on my dad and tried installing straight to the unallocated space. After the installation completed it restarted the installer, which is not what happened when I previously successfully install windows 10. I then changed the boit order to have my ssd first and rebooted, which gave me the Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media error.
Confused I loaded up the installed and there were correctly partitioned installs already on the ssd ( although one partition looked a little small). I tried reinstalling windows 10 with the same result over and over.
My laptop has dual boot - Windows 7 and Windows 10. My Win7 environment is my main working environment with lots of programs installed and important files. I installed the Win10 environment just to play around with 10 during the technical preview. Now, I would like to disable the 10 environment and upgrade the 7 to 10. Am I able to do this, or have I already "used up" my one upgrade on this computer's Windows license?
I notice that in Windows 7 I have not received the icon in the notification area that invites me to upgrade to 10. This makes me think I might have used up my chance to upgrade.
My end goal is to have a single Windows 10 environment. Note that the reason I want to upgrade my 7 environment to 10 is because I don't want to have to re-install all of my programs and files into the current 10 environment.
When I try to boot from a recovery flash drive, it fails with: EFIMicrosoftBootBCD error status: 0xc000000f and message: The Boot Configuration Data for your PC is missing or contains errors.
The recovery flash drive was created on a Lenovo ideapad originally with Windows 8, now upgraded to Windows 10, latest upgrades applied. Checked the box for copying system files. Target drive was a 16GB DataTraveler flash drive formatted as FAT32. Creation ran to completion with no errors. When booting normally, Windows 10 runs fine with no issues. I tried re-creating the recovery drive with the same results.
I created a repair disk and tried to use bootrec to fix the issue, but I suspect it did nothing or fixed the c: drive. I ran boot rec while in the root directory on the flash drive.
As I get ready to do a clean install of 10074 I am curious about the need to disable secure boot and fast boot options. If I do disable secure boot do I need to enable legacy boot?I have had limited success with previous installs to a 2nd hard drive and the problems that arose always seem related to dual booting.
In one instance I did a clean install of 10061 and had left secure boot enabled. In order to get dual boot working I had to disable secure boot, and upon rebooting I needed to change it back to secure. I then made Win 8.1 the default boot and then Win 10 would never boot from the menu, it would just take me back to the boot menu and I could boot into Win 8.1.
I'm making a image for installation of windows 10. I make a USB flash drive with WINPE. and once the device starts into WINPE, it will automatically start to install windows 10 by calling "dism /apply-image". Normally i just shutdown the computer after installation, but now i want to reboot the device and boot into the windows i just installed. But i can't, because if i reboot the device, it will boot into WINPE again and start another turn of installation of windows. How could i temporary boot into my windows 10?
After several weeks of testing I'm ready to go full on Windows 10 and want to get rid of Windows 7 but I have some partitioning issues I want to clean up. I currently have Windows 7 on drive 0 (360 GB) and Windows 10 on drive 1 (500 GB). Both are SATA drives and RAID is enabled in the bios but not active.
What I think I'd like to do is simply swap the drives physically so that Drive 0 has my current Windows 10 install on it and make it primary boot active etc. The drive with Windows 7 on it would become drive 1 and I would delete the Windows 7 partition and re-partition it with a clean empty partition just for extra space.
Second question, any advantage to using this drive configuration in a RAID setup?
I have a legacy 64 bit dual core desktop (ASUS mobo). I have several Sata hard drives in it with the 4th partition of my 1 Terabyte drive containing my Windows 10 Professional boot OS. After converting another similar legacy machine to a NAS device I took the old Windows 10 32 bit OS drive from it and tried booting the ASUS machine with it. Needless to say, the OS didn't like it and reverted to Windows 10 Pro Insider Preview edition (build 11082).
When I tried to restore the boot drive to the original one for this machine the master boot was missing.
I had just formatted another partition on the same drive that had contained a Windows7 installation that had failed. This partition may have contained the master boot record. So I booted to a command prompt from a USB drive and successfully ran the following commands:
bootrec /RebuildBcdbootrec /fixMbr bootrec /fixboot bootsect /nt60 SYSbootsect /nt60 all
After that the BIOS just says "An operating system wasn't found. Try disconnecting any drives that don't contain an operating system" This disk and OS are on the original machine it used to run on. As I understand it, Windows 10 tries to record it's key to somewhere in the BIOS. But the BIOS on these old machines don't provide such a facility. I don't understand what Windows 10 OS does with the key in this instance. If it was recorded in the BIOS then I'd presume that the other Windows 10 drive I attempted to use would have found it and used it. Or perhaps not, since it didn't like the new environment.
what I'm looking for is a way to get my original Windows 10 to boot again on the same machine it had always work on before, from the 4th partition of the 1 terabyte drive I'm using.
I used MicroTool partition manager to delete the extra partitions on an OS drive with win10 (leaving just the main C partition on the drive), and now the laptop will not recognize the SSD with the OS on it, and obviously cannot boot. I also tried using the bootable partition recovery tool from MicroTool, but restoring the partitions also does not work, it will only allow one of the two partitions to be restored.
Basically, I have a really bleepty BIOS that will only let me change the boot order with secure boot disabled and legacy boot enabled. I need secure boot because I just installed windows 10 onto a new drive and it won't activate. I have heard that this has something to do with secure boot being disabled. I still have the activated drive, which is the primary drive. Is there anything I can do to change the boot order?